Broken XBox 360 Wireless Receiver for Windows

Posted in General at 11:12 pm by jw

My XBox 360 Wireless Receiver for Windows died.  No more green light, no more being recognized by the OS when I plugged it in.  Weirdly enough, the first one I got was like this on purchase so I exchanged it for this one which worked fine… up until now.

Luckily, I found this fix from Eding1 which worked brilliantly.  Amazing the fuse blows so easily, and so irrevocably and yet nothing else on the USB chain had any issues at all.  Bad Microsoft hardware I guess…

Opening the receiver (use a knife or something to lever the top off):


Unscrew and turn the circuit board over then solder across F1:


Notes from the comments:

  • You can test whether this will work by connecting something like a paperclip across the fuse without desoldering it, then plugging it into your PC.
  • Apparently you can use foil paper and electrical tape to connect across the fuse.  Personally I’d recommend soldering, but if you don’t have a soldering iron it’s worth a try.
  • If “lever the top off” isn’t explicit enough for those not insane enough to pull apart everything they own, to get the case off jam, and I mean JAM, a butterknife in. Wedging it in the crease that is above the wire (between grey and white). Getting it in there good then wiggle and twist all about until the glue gives way. Because every inch other then where the wire is was thoroughly glued down. The circuitboard is receased so no need to be gentle, just don’t angle down.
  • Be warned folks. Just tried this trick on mine and it was the receiver that was causing the short. Just fried a USB port on my computer. Everything else seems okay for now.

Found this video on YouTube:

(Make sure you give the video maker appropriate kudos, btw)

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  1. Nick Said:

    June 28, 2009 at 4:08 am

    Dude, you just saved me 20 bucks. Thank you so much. The trick worked just fine.

  2. Shant D Said:

    July 7, 2009 at 3:03 am

    Wow, talk about Johnny on the spot. Particularly useful considering they no longer sell these things…at least not in my area. Frye’s, Target, Gamestop, Walmart, & Bets Buy all no longer carry it.

    It took me nearly 2 hours to get it right, so I’ll just leave this message in case anybody else had the same issues. For starters, do yourself a favor and do not use rosin core sotter. It was all I had unfortunately, almost impossible to make a suitable connection without it dissolving away. For nearly an hour and a half, the best connections I made yielded no results. I was beginning to believe there was another problem, maybe the whole thing was fried, etc…What finally worked was getting a pair of adjustable plyers, clamping down on a perfectly sized piece of sotter right over the terminals, and then melting it. Make sure the sotter is flattened over the terminals as much as possible. If it sits too high, when you go to put it back together, it could get knocked off. Happened to me once, very frustrating. Seems to be working like new now, but I wonder how long it will last.

    Anyway, thank you so much for taking the time to post this. People like you are why I go online. Good luck to everyone else!


  3. Craig M Said:

    July 7, 2009 at 10:22 am

    Just another note: Worked great for me, the soldering was pretty difficult, I did use Rosin core solder, I initially tried using tiny wires but in the end just a solder bridge worked for me. Messed with it alot till it looked right, plugged it in, perfection. The cosmetic look of my job is horrible, it’s charred, messy, and looks horrible. Practically? Works perfectly.

    Thanks for the fix.

  4. MRLoser Said:

    July 11, 2009 at 2:21 pm

    It worked like a charm for me. Removed the fuse with the soldering iron first and then bridge the gap with a little blob of solder. Workds great now. Thanks for this info!!!!

  5. crmay1 Said:

    July 25, 2009 at 12:39 pm

    Worked great. Thanks for the tip!

  6. Aleksander Said:

    July 26, 2009 at 9:05 am

    Thanks man. My reciever just died on me too, after just 3 days usage :( I’ll try do what you did. Btw, does anyone know if this might cause it to melt in the future or short circuit?

  7. jw Said:

    July 26, 2009 at 9:15 am

    Well, theoretically the fuse is there to protect the receiver from surges on the USB bus (I’d guess) and to protect the USB bus from short circuits in the receiver. However, a working receiver with less protection seems better to me than a broken one.

    The real increased risk is damage to the PC’s USB port if something goes badly wrong, so perhaps plugging it through a hub is a good idea after this modification?

  8. Mike Said:

    August 17, 2009 at 10:52 pm

    Holy Sh*t,

    You saved my life… (btw i just got to college, and don’t have soder in my room, i used a piece of foil and electrical tape, then i used a wad of tape behind the board to create pressure on the foil to stay in contact. works like a charm.)

  9. jeff smith Said:

    August 30, 2009 at 4:47 am

    SWEET i just did this on my new 1 i got off e bay it worked gate sept i pules the ols fuse off with the sodder gun lol but i just bridged it with sodder lol thanks live saver

  10. Roydon Said:

    August 31, 2009 at 3:30 am

    How long does this last? Can anyone verify ? and why does the fuse blow in the first place?

    Can some one verify if their ‘fixed’ recievers still work?

  11. jw Said:

    August 31, 2009 at 8:43 pm

    Mine’s still going fine for the 2 months since I posted.

    No clue why it blows – it does concern me a little, but I figure that having an irreplaceable fuse is a really, really stupid hardware design in any case. Had it been replaceable then this would all be simple.

  12. Roydon Said:

    September 1, 2009 at 12:51 am

    Imagine, I just removed out of the packing and it never worked right from the start. Im hoping its the same issue. Before I go head with this I just want ot confirm a few things.

    1) Should i remove the fuse and just put a blob of solder to connect the two (i gues it would be easier this way ) OR

    2) Solder across (Not really sure how you do this. What if i just put a blob of solder on the fuse and spread it a little so it touches both the leads , will that work?)

  13. jw Said:

    September 1, 2009 at 7:25 am

    If it didn’t work from the start, you really should think about returning/exchanging it rather than opening it up. Should that really not be an option then the easiest thing to do is just remove the fuse and connect the pads with a blob of solder.

    However, to test if this really will fix the problem you can just get a small wire and hold it across the fuse while plugging it into the USB. That way you’re not soldering something up if it won’t fix it.

  14. Roydon Said:

    September 4, 2009 at 12:17 am

    IT WORKED !!! Its easier to just remove the fuse and then add a blob of solder. WooHoo! Just hoping it lasts for a long time (*fingers crossed*)

  15. anil Said:

    September 6, 2009 at 3:53 am


    i think i have same problem. I connect it to my computer its not detected and no light glows. I did open the box. I never did any shouldering and I dont have any shouldering equipment as well:-(. Is there any easy way I can do it at home itself rather bringing it to hardware shop to do it. Any replies appreciated. waiting for reply. Thank you in advance

  16. jw Said:

    September 6, 2009 at 2:05 pm

    To fix it you’ll eventually need solder. You can test it by connecting the sides of the fuse with a paperclip (or something else metal) while you plug it in and see if that works.

  17. anil Said:

    September 6, 2009 at 9:48 pm

    thank you very much today i went out and did the soldering and it works perfectly now. I dont know how long this fix will be, But tell you what hats off to someone who found the solution and one who posted here. Really u saves so much money and time for all these people a big thank you for you. I think there are many people with this problem who wouldnot have made to this post I think microsoft should post this issue in their support as so many people are witnessing the same problem. Thank you very much once again for the help

  18. phil Said:

    September 7, 2009 at 3:12 am

    hey, this saved me some money, i almost ordered a new one. Didn’t have any solder, so i used foil paper and electrical tape like someone posted above and it worked, thanks a million for this.

  19. Ben Said:

    September 7, 2009 at 7:10 pm

    Just spent the evening unpacking a pallet of customer returns. Found 25 of these in there, all wouldn’t power on. Was about to bin them and then found this! Just finished fixing the last one and all 25 had the exact same fault!


  20. Mr X Said:

    September 12, 2009 at 1:56 am

    Worked great. I used a 2mm piece of metal from a resistor to bridge.

    Thanks from England UK!

  21. Bruce Said:

    September 13, 2009 at 9:34 am

    It worked for me. My old Radio Shack soldering iron would barely get hot enough to melt the solder, but I finally got it to work. So far so good. Thanks for this excellent info.

  22. Jeff Said:

    October 7, 2009 at 8:50 pm

    Thanks for the tip! I was pretty mad When I realized my receiver stopped working and searched the net for answers and I’m glad I came across your page! I did what you said and Not so far my receiver is working. The soldering was a bit tricky being that its so small of a space for a noob solder’er. I managed to get a very small piece of wire and lay it across the two points and solder it there and cut off the extra wire. Trying to get a blob of solder to lay across to bridge it was just to difficult without burning the board up.

  23. Matt Said:

    October 8, 2009 at 10:59 am

    Thank you very much for this! I had to go the tinfoil/electrical tape route but it works like a charm.

  24. Chuck Said:

    November 10, 2009 at 9:59 am

    Not the best soldering job. A big ball of solder over the fuse, but works perfectly!

    Thank you!

  25. Bosh Said:

    November 19, 2009 at 10:04 pm

    I love you so much for this man!
    To everyone experiencing shitty reciever problems, THIS IS MOST LIKELY YOUR ANSWER YOUVE BEEN PRAYING FOR

    I have never soldered before, but after four or five goes of placing a giant blob of sodder inbetween where the fuse is ment to go i got it. DONT GIVE UP HOPE KEEP TRYING :)

    Thanks man!

  26. RaresH Said:

    December 1, 2009 at 11:23 am

    Thanks man, worked perfectly, soldered across fuse, hope it lasts

  27. Altoid Said:

    December 2, 2009 at 9:29 pm

    Funny how everyone who’s had this thing has had the same problem. I took a piece of foil, bridged the two points, taped it up, and it works fine. I’ve had this thing for over a year and it’s sat in my closet because I thought the problem was bad drivers. Today I installed Windows 7 so I figured I’d give it another shot. Didn’t work, so I googled and found this page.

    Hopefully there won’t be any ill effects of bypassing the fuse. I don’t plan on leaving this thing connected while unattended, that’s for sure.

  28. microsucks Said:

    December 5, 2009 at 10:52 am

    hope this works! thank you very much kind sir! i was running amok inside our house asking who broke the damn thing! i had this receiver for less than a month! and i only use it on weekends. shouldve bought the wired. damn microsoft

  29. Jim Said:

    December 10, 2009 at 12:43 pm

    Just had the same problem and found this little mod on here and this fixed my problem.

    People having difficulty getting the solder to stick to the fuse to bridge.the connection. You must always heat the fuse as well. Solder will not stick to cold metal it will just fall off.

    I may do a bit more research and see if there is an alternative to just bypassing the fuse. Maybe a fuse with more amps would work better. Adding a resistor which is what I think MS should have done so it lessened the flow of voltage to the fuse thus less likely to blow. Way to fail MS at making something work.

    Also my receiver did last about 2 months which I think is pretty good for this controller.

    anyways thanks for this post. It helped a lot and I imagine will help many more people to come.

  30. James Said:

    December 11, 2009 at 8:07 am

    Great work bud! This is my 2nd controller. This one lasted 11 months, the 1st lasted 2 months. I’m going back to the shop today to see if i can still get the warrenty replacement but if they give me grief, i’ll do this fix.
    Thanks heaps :)

  31. Jason Said:

    December 29, 2009 at 8:37 am

    Nice work bud. Worked like a charm for me as well.

    Ironic how the gaming community can fix all kinds of electronics, but M$ can’t even design a wireless receiver that works for more than 6 months without breaking.

  32. Nasa Said:

    December 31, 2009 at 6:13 am

    dont leave it on 24/7 (ie unattended) as there was a fuse there for a reason….
    have fun gaming 😀

  33. Ryan Said:

    March 9, 2010 at 7:54 am

    Thanks, worked great! Saved me some cash cause I heard you can’t buy the receiver on its own anymore.

  34. shane Said:

    May 14, 2010 at 6:30 pm

    This does indeed work and only took about 5 min to do! Doesn’t make any sense it having a fuse. Almost all usb devices don’t have a fuse as usb is low voltage and low Ma. Seems it’s so you have to keep buying their stuff to me

  35. lilPete Said:

    May 31, 2010 at 4:24 am

    Genius! Thanks for this, saved my shelling any more money to that mind boggling corporation.
    And my soldering iron needed its dust blown off anyway.
    Happy gaming for me, thanks again!

  36. MrBozack Said:

    June 6, 2010 at 12:16 pm

    I just tried to use my wireless controller, and it seemed dead. The LED was not illuminated, not listed in device manager.

    First google hit, I find this page with beautifully detailed description of my fault and even a resolution. Many thanks for the bonus insight, I’ll try this tomorrow. I am confident it will work, if not it’s worth a shot!

    Thanks again!

  37. harcalion Said:

    June 6, 2010 at 9:50 pm

    Tried the paperclip today -> Worked.
    Will try soldering tomorrow.

    Amazing how easily this thing can break.

    Thanks to the poster and the guy that identified the fuse.

  38. harcalion Said:

    June 8, 2010 at 3:56 am

    I destroyed the circuit board with my inability soldering. Well, I was too worried to plug it back into my brand new PC.

  39. jw Said:

    June 8, 2010 at 6:20 pm

    :( Sorry to hear that.

  40. Sam Said:

    June 9, 2010 at 1:16 am

    Havnt got mine yet (coming tomorrow) but if it goes wrong ill know where to look.

    Was thinking whats the posability of soldering a switch in place of the fuse for easy on/off without unpluging/repluging?

  41. jw Said:

    June 10, 2010 at 8:37 pm

    A switch would work, but it would have to either be very small or you’d have to run wires somewhere. It’s on the bottom of the board so positioning it could be interesting too.

  42. citizen Said:

    July 6, 2010 at 10:20 pm

    “Opening the receiver (use a knife or something to lever the top off):”
    lever the top off?? What the hell does that even mean!? I cut my finger trying that!

    Anyway, what I ended up doing was jam, and I mean JAM, a butterknife in. Wedging it in the crease that is above the wire (between grey and white). Getting it in there good then wiggle and twist all about until the glue gives way. Because every inch other then where the wire is was thoroughly glued down. The circuitboard is receased so no need to be gentle, just don’t angle down.

    Mine was working fine for over a year until I unplugged/plugged it in while the computer was on. Apparently that’s what blows the fuse. Soldering over it fixed it right up.

    …lever the top off…

  43. jw Said:

    July 6, 2010 at 10:48 pm

    Uh, sorry about that. I like seeing how things work so “lever the top off” is just fine for me, but I’ll update the post to make sure blood isn’t spilled in future. I do have it on reliable authority though that blood sacrifices help electronics work better…

  44. f_ilippo Said:

    July 11, 2010 at 5:51 pm

    HI jw,
    do you think this trick works too with Big Button IR receiver?
    thanx for answer!


  45. jw Said:

    July 11, 2010 at 6:06 pm

    Filippo: It’s highly unlikely the circuit board is even remotely similar. While the issue could also be a dead fuse, I have no idea how you’d go about finding it.

  46. Daniel Said:

    July 25, 2010 at 11:31 am

    Holy shit man, I did not think I’d find a problem as specific as this on a discontinued product! I have 4 controllers and a racing wheel I want to use with emulators and this article saved it. Much thanks.

  47. someguy Said:

    July 26, 2010 at 4:29 pm

    Im worried about trying this fix and destroying my computer, I cant afford to get it fixed and cant afford to not have a computer. Is there anyone out there thats damaged thier computer after using this method?

  48. jw Said:

    July 26, 2010 at 6:50 pm

    I haven’t heard of anyone destroying their computer, but I guess they wouldn’t be able to post here if they had either. In the end, it’s your own decision. There’s a tiny but non-zero chance you could cause horrible damage to everything around you.

  49. someguy Said:

    July 29, 2010 at 3:54 pm

    It didnt work for me, I hate microsoft…now I have to spend another 40$ for a wired controller, watch it not work…

  50. Lewis Said:

    August 5, 2010 at 3:34 am

    Thank you very much for this 😀 It worked a treat!

  51. Mikey_J Said:

    August 8, 2010 at 1:52 am

    Hey thanks for this, had 2 broken ones now got 2 working ones…. Yipeee, was worried about soldering as i never done before, took 10 mins to get the blob of solder on there and it was a massive blob and before that i’d burnt where the fuse was, didnt think it would work but it was fine :)

    What im trying to say is just give it a go you dont have to be a pro at soldering. With in 30mins i took apart 2 recievers and soldered them both now they both work, Thaks very much JW your a life saver

  52. Wacko37 Said:

    August 17, 2010 at 11:10 am

    You are the greatest!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    My soldering looks like shit but it works like a charm.

    F*$K microsoft and their “we only give 90days warrenty”

    Keep up the good work

  53. Carl Said:

    August 25, 2010 at 8:53 am

    Thanks for that, worked a treat!!

  54. Eli Said:

    August 26, 2010 at 12:37 pm

    Thanks a bunch, found this on fixya.com but not surprised if it was ripped off from here. I am no soldering expert but took a few minutes to solder over the fuse and its back to life. Had it in the closet for a while and never used it, died 2nd or 3rd time that I plugged it in. Inept design.

  55. jw Said:

    August 26, 2010 at 2:29 pm

    Ha, figures someone else would rip the post but no big deal given I ripped it from a discussion thread. Would have been nice to be linked to, but whatever. :)

  56. epic709 Said:

    August 26, 2010 at 9:58 pm

    w00t! this actually worked! and here I was scouring the net for a replacement receiver……….some bloke on ebay actually sells receivers with the fuses blown and still tries to sell it as BROKEN (but with soldering instructions). Talk about lazy seller……..

  57. James Said:

    August 28, 2010 at 5:04 pm

    Thanks for the tip!

    Being too lazy to solder and not being able to find my jar of wire glue, I simply drew across the blown fuse with my conductive pen and she works again!

  58. Francis Said:

    August 30, 2010 at 1:20 pm

    Never thought about checking the fuse, thanks for the tip! You rock!

  59. adit Said:

    September 7, 2010 at 8:52 am

    Damn it dude!!! worked perfectly, I was using almfoil+electape. no soldering required,. thanks!!

  60. grim Said:

    October 3, 2010 at 12:17 am

    damn, i googled everything but the word ‘died’ for this problem, … until now …. i even replaced the cable and pins with an oldie
    maybe terms like device manager and not responding will get more traffic to this solution
    cheers dude

  61. Buccaneer Said:

    October 16, 2010 at 3:55 am

    Solder bridge across fuse worked a treat, just saved me £9.99 thanks for posting this.

  62. cjmccarthy72 Said:

    November 4, 2010 at 4:18 pm

    Brilliant worked for me- thanks from the UK!

  63. MNAOC Said:

    November 16, 2010 at 7:40 am

    Usted es un genio en 5 minutos esta funcionando de nuevo, mil gracias!!!!

  64. james Said:

    November 24, 2010 at 1:05 pm

    Its true blood sacrafices do help hardware. I have an old MX440 GPU that still works to this day thanks to the heatsink being filled with blood. Those heatsinks are razor sharp.

    Fix worked for me as well, got two of these but one was dead, no longer.

  65. Lou Said:

    November 27, 2010 at 4:51 am

    Just want to say thank you for posting. Much appreciated

  66. xbox wired controller for pc Said:

    December 3, 2010 at 7:55 pm

    i even replaced the cable and pins with an oldie
    maybe terms like device manager and not responding will get more traffic to this solution??really?

  67. Joel The Great Said:

    December 4, 2010 at 9:52 am

    I must say thank you. Totally awesome and works great now!! (no help from Micro$haft…utterly useless support forums).

    Things I learned. Using a ‘Cold Heat’ soldering iron makes the task about 10x harder than a regular solder iron (I’m guessing, cause it was a pain).
    Rosin core does make it harder, but still doable.

    I’d post more, but I have games to go play now!

    Joel The Great

  68. Joe Said:

    December 16, 2010 at 12:49 pm

    Count another person saved.

    Moments before a big gaming session, I discovered my Xbox Wireless Receiver was no longer working. It happened when I decided to “reorganize” my USB connections and moved some devices from the front panel to the rear.

    Used silver solder at 700 degrees F, first I removed the broken fuse at F1 – a very small rectangle black component, then I soldered over the connections. Warm each side of F1 for a few seconds then place a BB sized drop of solder on the tip of your soldering iron, as long as the two side of F1 are hot enough, when you touch the still host BB sized drop of solder it will flow to each side and make a nice clean connection.


  69. Josh Said:

    January 14, 2011 at 1:22 pm

    Thanks so much for that! I’m an electronics technician so this operation was done in about 7 min for me and you saved me 20$ plus 4 weeks without playing Just Cause 2 !

  70. JD Said:

    January 18, 2011 at 10:53 am

    Just soldered it myself (rosin core), got it on the second try.

    First I removed the fuse by applying some heat to it, but ended up using some little snippers to cut it out. Once the fuse was gone, I cut a little piece of solder and laid it where the fuse was. Applied some heat to secure it, and didn’t work the first time. I went back, melted and swirled it around a bit (lol – very technical, I know), and suddenly the green light appeared when I plugged it in!

    Thank you very much!

  71. Chris Said:

    January 30, 2011 at 5:15 am

    Works like a charm! Thank you so much for this.

    I wonder if it wouldn’t be best to find a replacement for that fuse, instead of bypassing it. But I guess it might cost just as much as buying a new receiver.

    Anyway, thanks a lot for a great tip!

  72. jw Said:

    January 30, 2011 at 12:34 pm

    Probably would be best to find a replacement fuse, but I really have no idea where to source surface mount components, much less figure out what the actual size of the fuse was and what it really should be (given that it appears to be too small).

  73. Chris Said:

    February 15, 2011 at 2:20 pm

    Thanks for this! I super-glued a small piece of foil (from a chocolate coin) onto the PCB right next to the fuse, then shaped the foil onto the fuse. It’s working fine so far.

  74. illy Said:

    March 11, 2011 at 12:43 pm

    dude, THANKS. almost threw mine away before i found this article. you saved me some money!

  75. JunkInternetMail Said:

    April 9, 2011 at 6:25 am

    I just nutted finding this. My google-fu helped me see this blog article.

    Then when I tested using a paperclip I literally nutted.


  76. Geoff Said:

    April 28, 2011 at 1:19 pm


    I was absolutely amazed that this worked.

    Apparently this device is a power whore and when you use to many usb devices without an external hub this fuse blows. The device was working fine then I installed a new high end mouse and keyboard and the fuse on this thing went. The trick worked beautifully.

    Thanks so much

  77. Jeremy Said:

    April 30, 2011 at 2:36 am

    Thanks, you saved me $20. Crappy M$ hardware.

  78. Paulo Oliveira Said:

    April 30, 2011 at 12:38 pm

    Maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaan… WOW!!!

    You saved me $30… Crappy M$ hardware…

    Greetings from Brazil! =D

  79. Stevearama Said:

    June 19, 2011 at 3:12 pm

    I know this is old.. but i also wanted to post and say thank. took me a few goes to get the connection, but the controller now works.

    again.. you saved me 20 bucks… so i owe you a beer.

  80. Taco Said:

    July 2, 2011 at 5:40 am

    Don’t know if you’ll ever read this, but I freaking love you. Thanks. So glad this worked, especially as you can’t really find these things anymore without buying the entire controller package (not cheap!).

  81. jw Said:

    July 2, 2011 at 9:29 pm

    Still reading, and still happy I’m helping people. :)

  82. Phing Chov Said:

    July 4, 2011 at 6:17 am

    Awesome job! Thanks for posting the pictures!

    I wish I would have found this a week ago, I could have saved some money! Either way, now I have two of these receivers! :)


  83. hoki Said:

    July 4, 2011 at 9:38 am

    Can someone who used “foil paper method” give me some tip?
    It seems not work fine on me, the green light turns on but not stable, I don’t want spend some money to buy a soldering iron! But i think buy a soldering iron is better than buy a another receiver….

    anyway, thanks for posting this!

  84. jw Said:

    July 4, 2011 at 7:25 pm

    If the light isn’t stable then it probably means you’re getting a bad connection between the foil and the metal ends of the fuse. The fact it turns on at all seems to indicate that you’ll have success with a more permanent solution.

    Note: I haven’t tried the foil method myself, just guessing here.

  85. Wynadorn Said:

    July 4, 2011 at 9:04 pm

    Also reporting that this fix worked for me.
    I recommend using a flat screwdriver directly from the start. I first used a small screwdriver, then a larger one, and once I had it pyed open a bit I used a knife over de width of the receiver to fore the top off.

    Thanks Chris for noting that foil can also be found around chocolate, we didn’t have any though I found some around a chocolate bar.

  86. hoki Said:

    July 5, 2011 at 12:47 am

    I think i need to buy a soldering iron finally, the foil paper method is really danger i think, when i put a piece of foil paper on the fuse, it sparkled!(short circuit?) And the chips became extremely hot! I nearly burned my finger!

  87. Glenn Said:

    July 9, 2011 at 2:14 am

    Thank you for this article, I just experienced the same problem and google brought me here.

    Advice for getting the top off – Start at the top under the rubber sleeve where the cable enters. I used a flat headed screwdriver and leveraged the middle and worked my way left and right until the top was clear, then work down the sides – crack it off, it’s not a pleasant feeling.

    With the soldering – I actually removed the broken fuse rather than soldered on top of it. It’s so tiny it falls off by just heating each side a couple times over. Then add a blob of solder in the gap and use the irons point to push it to each terminal to connect it to both sides. It doesn’t need to be neat or beautiful, just make sure you don’t touch the other tracks and only heat the board in short intervals.

    Great fix and easy to do, thanks again!

  88. hoki Said:

    July 10, 2011 at 9:12 am

    I bought a soldering iron finally, but this trick didn’t work for me:sad
    It seems i am the second one who fail this trick>_<

    Can someone upload a tutorial video to Youtube? I appreciate that a video more than just words(not a complain)

  89. Chris Said:

    July 21, 2011 at 1:00 pm

    It worked!! Do what @Glenn says, removing the fuse is much easier than trying to get the solder to flux to the fuse terminals. Then just drop a ball of solder on the board where the fuse was. Mine was big and ugly because I forgot to change out my flathead tip before heating up the iron, but it worked like a charm!

    I wish I knew this when my first one failed a couple years ago. I can’t believe MSFT would overlook such an obvious design flaw. Actually I can, they’re a software company. Not their first engineering failure (Xbox 360 RROD…)

  90. Manoug Said:

    July 28, 2011 at 12:01 am

    Thank You! Right on the money. Dropped a quick solder joint between F1 and did a quick test worked like a charm. At first I had a little tough time getting the lid off however I started at the rubber bushing where the cabling enters and used a small flat blade screwdriver and started to pry working my way to both 11 and 1 oclock positions then muscled the lid off once I was able to get enough leverage. I will problably use a few dabs of some non permanent glue to reattach.

    Thanks again for posting this it saved a few bucks!

  91. Antoine Turmel (GeekShadow) Said:

    August 10, 2011 at 9:53 am

    Work great :) I did use tape and foil paper.

    I’m sure the fuse did blow during a power outage some days ago.

  92. Antoine Turmel (GeekShadow) Said:

    August 10, 2011 at 10:24 am

    You should do a post on : http://www.ifixit.com/ :)

  93. Stretch Said:

    August 31, 2011 at 9:22 am

    Bluetac and kitchen foil. Hell yeah!

  94. Breeanna Said:

    September 28, 2011 at 12:43 pm

    Worked like a charm! Saved me from throwing out my controller! or worse buying another reciever for $20 bucks! 0.0!

  95. zen smith Said:

    October 3, 2011 at 9:43 am

    Thanks for the tips guys, did this in about 5 mins other than the taking it apart.. which took me a while until i saw the part about the butter knife

  96. Johnn Said:

    October 7, 2011 at 5:44 pm

    Hope someone can answer me this question, i just bought the controller (JR9-00001) and came with the receiver and now im reading all those issues about the receiver stopped working, i have mine plugged to the motherboard all the day around 12 hours daily (since a week) but now im worry about pluggin in just when i use it or leave it connected like now.

  97. jw Said:

    October 7, 2011 at 5:52 pm

    I have no idea what triggers the fuse to blow. Obviously it won’t blow if it’s not connected, but if the blowing is related to powering up/down then you could make things worse by only plugging it in to use it?

    Bad answer, I know – sorry!

  98. Johnn Said:

    October 8, 2011 at 1:22 am

    That was what i thought, so i’ll leave it plugged to the computer, Thanks a lot for your answer didn’t expect that you will answer in minutes.

  99. jw Said:

    October 8, 2011 at 2:58 pm

    It helps to have email notification of comments on. Good luck with your receiver.

  100. colin Said:

    October 8, 2011 at 3:25 pm

    found mine was dead today, thanks for the info help me a ton.

    Mine was always plugged in so that wont keep it safe, guess its just random chance.

  101. Patrick Said:

    October 12, 2011 at 1:27 pm

    Worked perfect, hardest part was getting the damn case open. THANK YOU

  102. dan Said:

    October 14, 2011 at 5:45 am

    Okay. Now I see what I must do. So glad to have come across this via google. I’ve never soldered before but it seems like the more trusty route if I can avoid scorching the thing. Any tips on the soldering technique?

    By the way thanks for sharing this information so that those of us who have a brain can wield it like a Samurai sword!!

  103. jw Said:

    October 14, 2011 at 9:01 am

    Once you have the case open, enough heat to melt the solder on both sides of the fuse so you can remove it. Then use just enough solder to bridge the two contacts where the fuse was. It’s mostly just being careful to not hold the iron on the board for too long – just enough to melt the solder is enough.

  104. abdulhkeem Said:

    October 24, 2011 at 6:59 pm

    i done mine today it blew yesterday tou saved me from buying a new receiver

    took me 4 or 5 tries to get it right

    thanks agian man really

  105. Jim Said:

    October 30, 2011 at 1:12 am

    Worked just fine for me too,

    I haven’t used the controller for quite some time and today it was like dead. Thanks for the great tip.

  106. rey Said:

    October 30, 2011 at 1:50 pm

    Thank god for this blog post. I was really upset to find out my receiver wasn’t working and used google to find a solution. I followed the steps of the blog post and everything worked out well. Only problem I had was almost stripping the screw that mounts the panel onto the plastic casing.

  107. dominic Said:

    November 19, 2011 at 5:04 pm

    thank you thank you thank you! i shall return to skyrim now.

  108. Maranzintosh Said:

    November 27, 2011 at 10:18 pm

    Perfect hint mate, i thank you so much from Italy!
    p.s. i hadn’t a soldering iron, so i used a piece of the foil case of china take-away! 😀

  109. Jonathan Said:

    December 11, 2011 at 7:46 am

    Just leaving another thank-you. This fix worked perfectly for me!

  110. John Said:

    December 16, 2011 at 2:25 pm

    Hey man! Thank you so much! I’ve had my receiver for two years, plugged it in to play a game and it was dead. I de-soldered the old fuse and attempted to bridge the gap and got a big glob of solder across my other components. Had to de-solder that and scrape it off, tried again and success! Thanks again!

  111. Krystian Said:

    December 21, 2011 at 7:22 am


  112. Roy Baker Said:

    December 22, 2011 at 8:46 am

    Thanks, this guide helped fix my wireless receiver after it randomly died in the middle of an online game. Used aluminum foil and electrical tape and the receiver is working great again.

  113. Unlimate Said:

    December 24, 2011 at 4:31 pm

    Thank you very much sir you saved my 22 bucks and 2 week waiting for new receiver!!!
    You are beast man thanks again :))))))))))))))

  114. Phokal Said:

    December 31, 2011 at 6:53 am

    Yup, this worked for me as well. After unplugging it and plugging it into a new computer, the light would not turn on. Plugging it back in the original computer, the light would still not turn on or detect as new hardware.

    I had a friend Cracked it open and performed this solder with a wire across the top and it detects and works fine now.

    Thanks a TON. It is not easy to order a new replacement for this wireless adapter.

  115. SoZuu Said:

    January 9, 2012 at 9:59 pm

    Worked, many thanks!

  116. Eric Said:

    January 31, 2012 at 1:37 pm

    Thanks! Saved me $20.

  117. Eddie Said:

    February 9, 2012 at 12:35 am

    This fix worked! Thank you very much!

  118. Justin Provido Said:

    February 9, 2012 at 12:48 pm

    wow it worked. I used a copper wire to solder the two points together. didn’t like the idea of making a huge blob.

  119. Scribble Said:

    February 23, 2012 at 2:19 pm

    Link added to pcgamingwiki.com

  120. Dude Said:

    February 27, 2012 at 1:46 pm

    Thanks, this worked like a charm. I tested out with a piece of foil first to verify that was the problem. Then went out and got a soldering iron and did my first soldering job. Couple months later and it still works. Much thanks!

  121. Stanley Said:

    March 2, 2012 at 1:25 am

    Hmmzz.. A pitty, doesn’t work for me. I first tested it with a peace of foil paper. For a few seconds Windows was able to find the device. After that, no more. I then began soldering. I just put a blob of solder over the fuse, so both sides make contact with eachother. Still Windows does not recognize the device. Anybody got a hint?

  122. abdulhkeem Said:

    March 5, 2012 at 5:44 pm

    try to solder the whole fuse that worked for me

  123. abdulhkeem Said:

    March 5, 2012 at 5:45 pm

    if windows didn’t recognize it try pushing the sync button on your reciever and controller

  124. Calvin Said:

    March 7, 2012 at 11:41 am

    Just wanted to say thank you ***SO*** much! Whipped out my soldering iron and saved myself $45 (was going to buy another wireless 360 controller, the black one, since that’s the only way to get a new, legitimate receiver).

  125. Ross Said:

    March 10, 2012 at 9:33 am

    I have had my receiver for several years now and never had a problem. All I did was unplug it to move it to my laptop today and boom it stopped working. Thank you so much you totally saved my butt today.

  126. SedonaCORE Said:

    April 2, 2012 at 9:51 am

    It worked!! YAY! Thank you very much for this fix.

  127. MattB Said:

    April 2, 2012 at 4:04 pm

    Decided to get back into Skyrim today and realized the wireless receiver was not working (after nearly 2 months of not using it), took it apart, heated up the fuse’s connections and removed it, then bridged it with solder…still doesn’t work. Any other ideas?

    I really enjoyed using the 360 controller to play Skyrim on PC since the game’s interface is obviously best suited for it…pretty aggrivated right now to say the least.

  128. Alru Said:

    April 3, 2012 at 8:21 am

    Amazing, helping gamer’s fix controller since 2009! thanks!

  129. jw Said:

    April 4, 2012 at 5:46 pm

    @MattB – No idea. Really could be anything from something in the controller to something in the receiver to device drivers. :/

  130. jay Said:

    April 17, 2012 at 2:11 pm

    I didnt remove the fuse,just tape a litle part o foil paper over the conection and Bravo,everyting work so far,tx a lot nice tuto

  131. Microsh!t Hater Said:

    April 26, 2012 at 7:46 pm

    Thanks.. as with everyone else it worked as stated. I really appreciate it.

  132. lordy Said:

    May 2, 2012 at 6:47 am

    Thank you! Whats your PayPal email? I wanna buy you a beer 😉

  133. jw Said:

    May 2, 2012 at 6:27 pm

    ozthrox@gmail.com, but seriously – no need. I’m just crazy happy to have been this helpful, and it was Eding1 on the original thread that really came up with the solution. I somehow just got lucky enough to be high on the search engines to get a lot of traffic.

  134. nick Said:

    May 22, 2012 at 2:35 am

    I tried the paperclip and its worked. I’m sold. Even if I do bugger it up tomorrow with the soldering iron, I’m blown away by how many people took the time to write in and with such positive feedback.
    Well done to all who help us out on the internet – you are the beginning of a whole new era of free information.
    I wish you ALL the best.

  135. RBX Said:

    June 23, 2012 at 9:26 pm

    Ordered another off eBay before I discovered this thread but at least I can play over the weekend now and I’ll have a spare untainted one to sell on or use on another PC. Time to get Max Payne 3 back out and finish it off. Thanks for the guide. I just soldered a cross the top of the fuse. Took about 3 seconds to do and worked first time. Thanks again


  136. e1win Said:

    August 5, 2012 at 4:19 am

    hello everyone, i detach case of my receiver, but microcircuit another, if i stick photo my chip, can you help me some advice

  137. jw Said:

    August 5, 2012 at 9:47 am

    If you post the photo, I can try but really don’t think I’d be able to figure it out just from that.


  138. bladeZ Said:

    August 14, 2012 at 2:02 pm

    does the black receiver still has the same component with the white one?like the F1 FUSE ? well mine is black and yes it’s written MICROSOFT not XBOX 360 ( chinese knock off maybe).. I’ve got the wireless controller with the receiver either ( wireless controller for windows the black elite S ) , I haven’t order it but I just want keep it safety so one day maybe i can fix it.. anyone can take the picture so i can see the f1 fuse ( The black one) ? any help or comment i appreciate it or someone can send the picture to my e-mail: liahwen@yahoo.co.id. Oh and one thing i wanna ask, does the receiver work if i using some metal piece like iron or paper clip like that? anyone who answer i appreciate it. please someone respond :(

  139. jw Said:

    August 14, 2012 at 6:59 pm

    Hey bladeZ,

    Click on the images above to see the zoomed in circuit board, or look at the YouTube for better detail? If you open your black receiver and it looks the same then it should all be good.


  140. bladeZ Said:

    August 14, 2012 at 11:40 pm

    thx jw! you know , i haven’t buy the wireless controller for windows 😀 I just want to make sure that the black receiver and the white one has the same component and yes , i will buy the genuine one not the chinese knock off. by the way does the receiver will work by attaching the F1 with metal things? like Paper clip or other metal things? thx for the answer jw 😀

  141. jw Said:

    August 14, 2012 at 11:58 pm

    Just to be clear – I don’t know if the black and white receivers are the same internally. I can’t think why they wouldn’t be, but who knows.

    Yes, the receiver can be repaired by putting something metal across the blown fuse.


  142. bladeZ Said:

    August 15, 2012 at 1:26 am

    owhh, so sad :( i hope the black one has the same system with the white one.. does anyone has repaired their own receiver especially the black model? And of course it is written “MICROSOFT” not “XBOX 360″.. any kind answer i will appreciate it :).. once again thx for the reply JW ! 😀

  143. parth Said:

    August 17, 2012 at 8:27 pm

    thank bro u saved my 60$
    i glued two wires n connected them with the fuse. worked gr8
    thank a lot
    frm india

  144. laz Said:

    September 7, 2012 at 3:04 pm

    Just did this to the black model I own and it worked fine. Has anyone had any problems leaving it plugged in for long periods of time. I don’t want to constantly plug and unplug it.

  145. Sandra Said:

    September 9, 2012 at 1:00 pm

    My receiver conspicuously broke down two weeks after the warranty had run out. This worked like a charm. Thank you.

  146. Allan Almeida Said:

    September 24, 2012 at 7:56 am

    Hey dude,

    It worked so fine, my truly thanks right from Brazil!

  147. winno Said:

    October 7, 2012 at 4:47 am

    cheers man would have never figured that out.
    did a 3 am job
    wire our of a telstra phone line filter
    electrical tape to insulate
    keyring to hold enough pressure to make the connection

    who needs soldering!

  148. Ricky Said:

    October 19, 2012 at 8:11 am

    Very glad to have found this. I was able to pop the receiver open and have it fixed within about 10 minutes. I took my hot soldering iron and touched it straight to the fuse, and it stuck to my iron and came right off the PCB. This allowed me to just fuse the gap, which worked perfectly.

    My receiver worked perfectly for many years until I put it in a box to move. Plugged it in after the move, and it wouldn’t work. I thought I’d have to buy another one. Thanks for this quick tip. Worked perfectly.

  149. Anubis Said:

    October 24, 2012 at 3:26 am

    despite sucking at soldering (very badly sucking at it)

    managed to fix it with this, thanks a lot 😀

    broke after i wanted to use the controller on my xbox and tugged on the dongle’s cable to get it to disconnect, apparently that was enough to blow the fuse : /

  150. Loon Said:

    December 7, 2012 at 6:17 am

    Thanks for the guide, managed to fix my receiver despite being a total noob at soldering.

    Good man!

  151. Aleks Said:

    December 8, 2012 at 12:43 am

    Mine died after about 4 years of use. Seems taking it out while it was powered killed it (Ihave done this 100 times before tho…). Anyways I removed the fuse with some force, and put a dot of solder on it. Now it lives again 😀

    Thanks a bunch from Norway!

  152. e1win Said:

    December 26, 2012 at 7:23 am

    hello jw)
    i stuck photo)

  153. jw Said:

    December 26, 2012 at 11:48 pm

    Hi e1win,

    Can’t precisely tell from the photo, but do any of the components up near the area the cable connects have a “F1″ label beside them (on the second photo)? That would be my guess, but a really, really shaky one.

    If they do, try bridging the component with some foil to see if you can get the receiver to be recognized by your PC.

  154. e1win Said:

    December 28, 2012 at 3:39 am

    can you mark place, where i must place foil?mb at the paint you mark place by pencil)))

  155. jw Said:

    December 29, 2012 at 8:45 pm

    From that photo, I can’t read anything marked as “F1″, so I really have no idea. :/


  156. Dada Ist Said:

    December 30, 2012 at 9:08 pm

    Holy heart attack, batman, this worked. Nice ugly large blob of solder over the F1 fuse and my this stupid thing works again. Just saved me about 60 euros, so thank you very much!

  157. ParAn0id Said:

    January 7, 2013 at 8:08 am

    60 euros? did you repair 3 of that things? only cost about 16€ at amazon…anyway i just taped a piece of copper wiring from an audio cable on the fuse an secured it with like 7-8 rubber bands 😀 looks terrible but works just fine. (=

  158. Hans Said:

    January 18, 2013 at 10:19 pm

    Worked fine by me. Thanks very much.

  159. Brian Said:

    January 22, 2013 at 8:09 pm

    Great fix, tho i did unsolder the fuse >.<, still works tho once joined ^.^
    Thank You

  160. Fife Said:

    February 10, 2013 at 2:33 pm

    Thank you! Mine worked great 24 hours a day for 2 years until tonight. A tiny bit of aluminum foil, tape, and 3 minutes is all it took to fix.

  161. yinyinxp Said:

    February 15, 2013 at 1:04 am

    Dude, it really works, I accidentally dropped it on the ground and it failed to work any more, thanks for your trick and it works again now!!

  162. john Said:

    March 22, 2013 at 2:54 am

    omg man!!this really worked!!i cover fuse with a tiny piece of foill then over foil i put tape and it worked!!!!big thx my friend!!! :)

  163. Kornstalx Said:

    May 12, 2013 at 4:15 pm

    I bought the (black) controller + wireless dongle bundle last September from a local Best Buy. Worked great under heavy use for a few months then I pretty much stopped using it. The dongle stayed attached to the PC 24/7, and just tonight I bought Skyrim and dragged out the controller only to see it wasn’t working.

    Just like everyone else here, I did a quick google, saw this blog, and immediately went to the hardware store for a $7 soldering pen. Took off the old fuse and blobbed over it, 15 mins later it’s working like a charm. Think I’ll unplug it with the controller for storage this time around, though.

    Thank you!!!

  164. codepeach71 Said:

    May 27, 2013 at 3:09 pm

    Worked perfectly, used a blob of solder. Saved me $20

  165. cms Said:

    July 5, 2013 at 11:09 pm

    Worked like a charm, thanks!

  166. rawlink Said:

    July 6, 2013 at 9:25 am

    Dude, you rock. I just unsoldered the efuse and bridged with a blob of solder.

  167. Aaron Given Said:

    July 22, 2013 at 6:45 am

    Be warned folks. Just tried this trick on mine and it was the receiver that was causing the short. Just fried a USB port on my computer. Everything else seems okay for now.

    Fair warning.

  168. jw Said:

    July 22, 2013 at 7:06 am

    Doh. Sorry to hear that. :/

  169. Rather Dashing Said:

    July 24, 2013 at 9:23 am

    When my wireless receiver died a couple of months ago I (stupidly) called Microsoft instead of just googling the problem.

    As common as this issue seems to be, the rep. on the phone seemed quite surprised I was having any problems. Microsoft must certainly be aware of this manufacturing defect by now. Yet the rep. on the phone was useless and refused to help me out because I was outside of their pitiful 3 month warranty period. He did, however, disclose that the part has been discontinued and so even if I was within the warranty period he would not be able to offer me a replacement, only a refund.

    So what did I do? I found a Future Shop store that still had the “Xbox 360 Wireless Controller for Windows” in stock and bought one. The next day I returned it for a full refund because it was “defective.” (I just swapped out the wireless receiver part and kept the working one.)

    Some people may consider this immoral; I do not. The store will send it back to Microsoft and get credited for it. The only loser ends up being Microsoft and I’m not losing any sleep over that. They sold me a lemon, so to speak.

  170. sw Said:

    August 16, 2013 at 11:52 pm

    Thanks mate, the tin foil trick did it for me!

  171. herman Said:

    August 26, 2013 at 8:33 am

    Planned obsolescence at its best!! thanks for this dude!

  172. U Hu Said:

    September 1, 2013 at 11:27 am

    Truly appreciative of people that post their experience on the Interwebs. Found this in less than 30 seconds and have a working receiver again (a black one). My son is having the same problem – I’ll get him up and running again in no time.


  173. Cody Said:

    September 18, 2013 at 12:13 pm

    Thank you so much! All of a sudden my receiver randomly stopped working, it would not get detected by any computer I have. I knew there was something with a open circuit [as long as the USB cable is intact it should at least recognize SOME sort of usb device], but it would have taken me much longer to troubleshoot if not for this guide. Literally took me 5 minutes to open up and fix, works like a charm now!

  174. Pa Dejo Said:

    November 1, 2013 at 9:00 pm

    One of my Xbox controller receivers also died on me.
    Got it back alive by shorting the fuse as mentioned.
    Great tip !

  175. Has Said:

    November 16, 2013 at 4:56 pm

    Well, mine broke down yesterday evening. Was quite a bit worried since my soldering skills are almost none, I just splashed a big blob of soldering over the (broken) fuse and it seems to work. Any risk in using this? It works, but can it overheat because of this?

  176. jw Said:

    November 16, 2013 at 10:11 pm

    I’m sure the fuse is there for good reason, so naturally there’s risk. Given that USB supplies 500mA or so maximum, I can’t see overheating being an issue though.

  177. Mehmet from Turkiye Said:

    December 2, 2013 at 6:20 am

    many many great thanks.

  178. Dan Said:

    May 31, 2014 at 4:01 pm

    Almost 5 years later and you’re still helping people. My receiver just stopped working one day a few months ago and I finally have time to start gaming again. Your post turned into a 5-minute fix!

  179. Chris Said:

    July 5, 2014 at 12:09 am

    It drives me crazy when I see fixes like this. This is like saying to someone who has a TV which keeps tripping a breaker to simply short the terminals on the breaker…bah “It’ll work”… sure if you don’t mind fires, fried wires and a damaged TV set.

    The fuse is there for a purpose…I don’t have one yet to check, but I suspect they have used a fuse too close to the surge current that the device has occasionally. Bumping up the fuse to a resettable (or one shot) will fix the problem AND protect your USB subsystem on your computer and the Receiver from damage in those rare moments.

    If you have a Multimeter, put the meter on DC current setting and place the probes across the faulty fuse and plug it in… you’ll see what the current draw from the Receiver is, 300mA? 500mA? no idea, I’ll know when I get my unit. After you know that we can get a replacement SMD part to fit where the old fuse was… the fuses that reset themselves (common on USB buses) probably 500mA is a likely good choice. MUCH safer than simply shorting the contacts where the fuse was.

  180. jw Said:

    July 10, 2014 at 9:20 pm

    Hey Chris,

    Not many people have the equipment you’re talking about and although (obviously) replacing the surface mount fuse yourself or upgrading it to something resettable/right value is “better”, it’s no good to someone that simply can’t do that.

    Right now I have 120+ people with successful fixes and 1 with a blown USB port that I clearly posted up top as a warning. Seems like good odds to me, and stop trying to equate this to the same risk as a breaker throwing – 20 amps and 110V is somewhat different to 500mA at 5V.

    In the end, I’m about pragmatism and I don’t think you have it. :)

  181. ljw13 Said:

    July 20, 2014 at 6:48 am

    Weird… I could not get it to work with electrical tape, but first try with duct tape worked just fine! I made sure it wasn’t touching anything else on the board. Hopefully it lasts! Thanks for the easy fix.

  182. schouffy Said:

    July 22, 2014 at 11:28 pm

    Thanks dude, it worked. You rock

  183. Olly Said:

    October 6, 2014 at 7:57 pm

    Give that man an internet hug!


  184. jw Said:

    October 9, 2014 at 8:19 pm

    Post from Jaz that somehow got lost:

    Thought some of you guys that want to go a little further down the rabbit hole might find this interesting.
    found some basic information on the type of fuse used in this receiver. it is a “Surface Mount Fuse, 1.6 x 0.8 mm” “0603FA Series, Fast-Acting”.
    Figured this out after taking a few physical measurements “L (1.6mm)” X “W (.81mm)”.
    on my original microsoft branded receiver the fuse is “green” and has a captial letter “D” on it.
    here are few data sheets to give you an idea of what it is.


    here is a quick search i did, the only problem is i don’t see any listed for around a “5V” rating. only found “32V” rating::

    Search term:: ” Littelfuse SMD 0603 Fast Acting Fuse 0.5A 500mA 5v ”

    Hopefully this info is a little helpful to the people that want to replace the fuse with another.
    I’m just not sure about the significance of the “D” on my fuse?

  185. eGaTS Said:

    November 6, 2014 at 5:06 am

    I have owned one of these original white receivers, Model 1086, P/N X809782-001 for about 7 years and today it died coming out of standby, which brought me to this page. Does anyone know if this issue has been fixed in the newer black models? (Amazon ASIN B000HZFCT2)

    Jaz/jw: I admire your research. Perhaps I can fill in a few gaps for you. The 0603 designates a L x W size of 0.063″ by 0.031 or 0.032″ (the 06 and 03 come from these measurements) — the same in metric is 1.60mm x 0.80 or 0.81mm which corresponds to an equivalent metric 1608 (expand your search to include these as well). The letter “D” code marking designates a current rating of 0.25 A (250 mA), not 500 mA. That narrows it down to one of these:


    While it’s true that USB ports run at 5.00 +/- 0.25 V, you want some overhead to be safe. 32V will work just fine. Low-power devices, such as this receiver are supposed to pull one unit load off the USB (100 mA for USB 2.0, 150 mA for USB 3.0). An overcurrent event is what blows these fuses, so either they are faulty, or the system has a serious design flaw.

  186. dez Said:

    November 19, 2014 at 6:40 pm

    It worked thank you so much

  187. Tiger Said:

    June 21, 2015 at 5:37 pm

    What would be the risk of bypassing the fuse? I fixed the controller using this method, but I am actually scared to plug it in. A fuse protects the system from a surge. And it bust because of one such ampere shift/surge in the first place, yea? What would happen if the same thing happens again? :( Opinions are welcome.

    I see a lot of people saying everything’s fine and everything’s working again. But I am thinking if its a ticking time-bomb which can fry something somewhere and we might not know until its too late. Just talking about a possibility.

    But still, thanks for putting this up as a ‘fix’. It CAN work, talking about the surge measurements in amperes are minimal compared to the bigger electronic devices. But still, there is a case.

    I am thinking another thing as well; what if we do this fix, and then get a USB hub that has a fuse on it, and connect the receiver via that. I believe externally powered USB hubs can have a over-surge protection on it. This would atleast protect the system to some degree.

    Let me know what you think.

  188. Dean Said:

    July 23, 2015 at 6:52 am

    Thanks for the guide, video, and tips shared here. I don’t have a soldering gun so I used a small piece of aluminum foil and a small strip of electrical tape to bridge over the F1 fuse. I then took some more electrical tape, folded it into a small wad, and placed it on the bottom of the housing unit so it would be sure to push the foil onto the F1 spot once the circuit board was back in place. Plugged it in and it’s alive again. Easy peasy. Had to superglue the housing back together so hopefully I won’t need to open it up again. :)

  189. KG Said:

    July 31, 2015 at 9:56 am

    Hey Jw I recently did the soldering job on my wireless reciever and when I plugged it back in the green light came on but now it seem to have lost its range, I now have to put it on my lap for it to pick up the controller and it is causing a lot of discomfort when I play. Could the problem b related to the fact that I used very thin wires to bypass the fuse? Please help I just dnt have the heart for keyboard anymore.

  190. jw Said:

    July 31, 2015 at 9:53 pm

    I doubt it could be the wires being thin. It’s possible you somehow broke off the internal antenna somehow though – that would explain the short range.

  191. Thesuffering Said:

    August 9, 2015 at 5:43 am

    Tried this fix, didn’t seem to work. I have tested that I have voltage on various parts of the board (heck even to the led) but the led won’t light up and windows doesn’t even notice a device is plugged in when I plug it in. If I hold down the button I can feel the processor getting hot, so I know I have power. Any ideas from here or should I just throw it away?

  192. jw Said:

    August 10, 2015 at 8:33 pm

    I’ve no clue, which means I’d go with “throw it away”. Sorry.

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